A Family Ski-Trip To The Extraordinary Jotunheimen In The Fifth Season

By Fredrik Sundberg, berthonscandinavia.com

Spring, a time to polish the boat, launch her, bring out the garden furniture, and clear the flower beds. For us skiers, this time is known as the Fifth Season, a period when we can enjoy skiing without having to freeze or rush home before it gets dark. In Sweden and Norway, the legendary Fifth Season is the time between spring and summer, when the snow begins to melt but before the real summer takes hold. This is the best time to take out the ski touring gear and climb some of the highest peaks in Scandinavia. At those heights, the snow is still cold and, with a bit of luck, you experience some powder turns.

JOTUNHEIMEN, NORWAY

During the spring, we were looking for a good weather window and now it was time; the first weekend in May looked promising. Together with my daughter Alice and our reliable companion, our dog Steira, we packed the car and headed to our neighbouring country to the west, towards the snow-covered heights of Jotunheimen for an adventure that promised both exertion and grand natural experiences. Jotunheimen, home of the giants, is an area often regarded as one of Norway’s most spectacular wildernesses, with many peaks rising higher than 2,000 meters.

SOGNEFJELLSVÄGEN

This is the perfect place for ‘Randonee’, or ski touring as it’s also called. During a previous visit to this area, I really did experience the forces of nature, as a heavy snowfall quickly swept over the mountain range, and we had to dig ourselves in to wait out the storm. Without visibility, it is far too dangerous to cross glaciers where there might be hidden crevices and you do not want to lose your bearings there. With our backpacks packed, skis waxed, and expectations high, we began our journey towards Norway’s most sought-after peaks.

TURTAGRØ MOUNTAIN HOTEL

After a spectacular drive over Norway’s highest road, Sognefjellsvägen, which reaches almost 1,500 meters above sea level, we arrived at our accommodation in Skjolden, situated at the innermost part of the Lustrafjord. The fjord, with its mirrorlike surface and surrounding green-clad cliffs, provides a perfect contrast to the snow-capped peaks. This area has developed a concept that combines the best of two worlds, ‘Sail and Ski’, a fascinating combination of sailing and skiing that offers unique opportunities for adventure in areas where these two sports naturally intertwine. The concept is popular in places like Norway, Iceland, Greenland, and parts of Canada, where large mountain ranges meet the sea. ‘Sail and Ski’ means that an expedition starts with a sailing yacht, enabling access to remote and often inaccessible coastal areas, where amazing unexploited skiing opportunities exist. This allows skiers to ski in untouched snow, experience rare landscapes, and then return to the comfort and safety of their floating base. Safety is, of course, central, both in terms of sailing and skiing. The expeditions require well developed skills in both sailing and mountain sports, as well as a good understanding of local weather conditions. So, ‘Sail and Ski’ combines two exciting outdoor activities in a unique environment, offering an experience that is both challenging and extremely rewarding. For adventurers who love both the sea and the mountains, there is nothing else quite like it.

LUSTRAFJORD

DAY 1

Our first goal was Store Ringstind, a majestic peak that rises 2,124 meters above sea level and is considered one of Norwayʼs finest ski tours. The very top is pointed and distinctive and the route is on a glacier, but usually, it is only during very snow-poor winters and late in the season that ropes are needed. Once at the summit there is a view that takes your breath away. The sun shines in an almost untouched sky, while the view over the surrounding mountains and valleys is outstanding. Here, on the top of Store Ringstind, it feels as if you are standing on top of the world, with a 360-degree view that offers extraordinary natural beauty. The climb up Store Ringstind was demanding, but the view that is at the top more than made up for it. The area is called Hurrungane and is so called because of all the avalanches that occur in the area – it roars in the mountain (roars = ‘hurra’ in Norwegian). Hurrungane is located in the western part of Jotunheimen, and has 23 peaks that rise more than 2,000 meters above sea level.

Steira, with her boundless energy, enjoyed the snow as much as we enjoyed the view. Alice, who usually trains for crosscountry skiing in Östersund and with significantly more training hours than me, led us quickly uphill with a fine ski technique and determined pole plants. After lunch at the top, it was time to tighten the ski boots. Skiing down Store Ringstind is a magnificent and memorable experience that few skiers forget. The descent begins with a kick of adrenaline as you face the first steep slope. The snow under the skis is usually of the highest quality – cold and packed in the morning, then softening as the sun touches it. This delivers perfect conditions for the descent. The skiing is a harmonious dance down the slopes, where each turn sends up small clouds of snow, and each curve is revealed in perfect sync with the mountain’s natural lines. After an arduous climb and epic ski downwards, we completed our day at Lustrafjord’s clear waters.

DAY 2

A new day with clear blue sky and radiant sun. Today’s goal is Soleibotntindane, a group of peaks whose highest point reaches 2,083 meters above sea level. We start from Turtagrø mountain hotel with a little over 1,000 meters of altitude in front of us. With climbing skins under the skis, we begin our journey towards the top. The skiing is breathtaking yet with technical challenges that demanded our full concentration. Safety is always the highest priority, and we took the time to navigate safely both on the ascent and descent. Skiing down these peaks in radiant sun is a dynamic mix of technical skill and enjoyment. For many, this represents not only physical performance but also a deeper connection to mighty and untouched nature, a moment when time seems to stand still and everyday worries melt away with each gliding movement down the slope. These moments of freedom and clarity make skiing in Jotunheimen a highlight in many skiers’ lives.

The trip to Jotunheimen was more than just a ski tour; it was an experience of nature’s power and beauty, a time for reflection and togetherness with my daughter and our dog. Steira, with her eternal enthusiasm, and Alice, always ready for a new adventure, made every moment very special. Standing there on top of Norway’s roof, surrounded by some of the most spectacular views on the planet, reminded us of how small we are in the great world’s embrace. And so homeward, with new memories and a determination to return again to the vast beauty that is Jotunheimen.

Next time you plan to sail to Norway, don’t forget to pack your ski kit!

Read Another Article
Download The Berthon Book 2024-2025 XX (28.2MB)